Trap levers

[pete]

Does anyone know of period documentation of trap levers or squeeze sticks being used ? I have made a set out of necessity, but I would like to have documentation. My traps are too big, and strong to break over my knee like a Victor #4. Any advice would be appreciated.

[TurkeyCreek]

No sir, I haven't seen any references but I'm anxious to see where this goes because I have the same problem with my #4 double long spring Victors.

[Duane]

I am interested in finding the answer to that one as well

[Leifer]

To this point I am unaware of any. However, and I'll have to track this down, I'm aware of the use of rope... Rod Lassey may have posted on this several years back. I'll see if I can track that down.

I use modified #5 Bridgers that I've added forged chains to and fabricated square pans for. I do manage to break those over my knee, holding one spring between my legs and the other with my hands until I get the jaws open. I say "manage to break" as it's not an easy task. There are additional options for us, such as using a smaller size trap, say a #4 Bridger that you modify or a trap of similar size that has springs that aren't tighter than a Fort Knox vault.

I know a lot of us do our darndest to live and experience thistime of history as closely as we can to what the people we portray did. I'd encourage us all to look at some of these options, if it's possible for you. At the end of the day, however, I'd rather see you headed down the trail and actively engaged in the lifestyle in the field. If "trap levers" is what enables you to engage in the art of historic trapping, you won't get any guff from me. I'd rather see you out in the field, doing what we do. Just my 2 cents worth. It's ok if you disagree with me, I won't be offended.

Leifer

[pete]

I appreciate the comments. My traps are forged by Hud Huddleston. I read of squeeze sticks in some of Rex Norman's writings, and they worked for me, and they didn't turn any heads at the last AMM event I went to. But I like to document my gear so I thought I'd try you fellas.

[john]

Hi Pete,
I'm new on here, actually just stumbled on the site this evening.   I'm curious about Hud Huddleston traps.  A couple of his came up on ebay recently but the seller wanted a lot for them relative to other repros that I've heard about.  One was a bear trap and the other a beaver trap; they looked dang good but at about $500 and $325 respectively they are a bit too rich for my blood. Are his Hud's better than other repro makers that are out there, hence the higher cost?  Is he still around and making them?  The seller seemed to indicate that he was making them sometime back in the past.  I've heard Hyrum Hunter does good work.  I'm also wondering where I can get period correct chain?  I noticed an old post on here that mentioned Fort Union, but then a follow up post said they were out.  Thanks
John  

[pete]

John, I don't know if he is still forging or not. As far as Hud's being better, I couldn't say . All I have seen were his ,and originals.Good luck with your search, and sorry I can't be of a better help to you.

Pete

[john]

Hi Pete,
Thanks for the info.  I have seen reference to trap spring levers somewhere.  I thought it was in the chapter on traps in Russell's book, but now I'm not seeing that in there.  I'll give it some thought and check some of my stuff.  I know I've seen it, seems like a sketch as I remember.

I'm curious how long ago you acquired your Huddleston traps, and if you actually met the man?
John

[pete]

John,
It was probably 8 or 10 years ago, when I bought the traps. And no, I never met the man, it's a long ways from Oklahoma to Montana. They are good, solid ,well made traps. I haven't really beared down and trapped in awhile,between work and raising kids,but I am slowly getting back out on the ground more.
Pete

[john]

Hey Pete,
I found the reference to trap levers that I remembered.  It's in George Laycock's book called "The Mountain Men", subtitle "The Dramatic History and Lore of the First Frontiersmen".  Publisher is The Lyons Press.  It's on page 24.  There's both a description and sketch of their construction and use, but he gives no historical reference, so I don't know if this is something that the author just surmises was a common practice or if he has seen historical documentation. It does make sense though.
John  

[pete]

John
Thanks for the reference, I'll have to look that up. Good luck on getting your requirements in.
Pete

[rodney]

I have a very difficult time supporting the theory of trap levers. In all my years of collecting traps and building traps I have never until modern times seen or heard of a trap lever being used in the historicall context. I believe the Trap levers were a modern invention during the 20th century that is the first time they show up in catalogs, that I'm aware of. All of my Hand Forged traps that still had serviceable springs. Did not need a device to aid in setting. With the exception of bear traps. These used a "C" clamp. I have Newhouse traps with hand Forge Springs. And these certainly could have benefited with a trap lever for a setting purpose. Modern trap building methods dictate stamping springs. To make a spring powerful enough to closing number 5 Bridger trap would Require using a thicker Steel. This method of producing offspring does not allow the same extreme Dimensions that a blacksmith can produce. A good long spring should be tapered from the I to the bend. And likewise from the center line of the Trap spring to the edge. Now, The wider the spring is at the bend the faster it will become. The thickness of the metal will determine the strength. The necessity of a powerful spring to catch a beaver is a myth. If you are using the same sets that the mountain men used a strong spring is not as important as a fast spring. On all of my Bridger number 5 traps I have remade the springs. Now these traps work very well. And aside from a few details they look no different than some of the originals that I have owned. A good chain for this trap is a Twist link kinkless chain.

[john]

Interesting Rodney, you are probably right.  I'm just about to set my first traps (with Allen Hall of the AMM) this weekend, literally since the late '70s or early 80s when I was in my late teens and early 20s.  I trapped mostly coons and rats with my brother then, but we did catch some beaver, and I don't remember difficulty setting any of our traps.  However, I just got a repro trap from Hyrum Hunter (also AMM, lives in UT) and though I haven't had chance to mess with it much yet, on an initial attempt I couldn't set the dang thing.  Maybe I've just lost my technique and Allen will soon set me straight, but them springs are beefy!  I've also been doing some research on original period traps and have bought 2 on ebay, but I need to be careful as my depth of knowledge isn't very great.  I may have some questions for you Rodney as I learn more.  Ok, here's one already - is there a current source for the Twist Link Kinkless chain you mentioned?  I suspect that's the type of chain that's on one of these originals I bought. Thanks  

[Old Solitair]

Pete, there is no historical data that supports the use of trap levers in any of the many trapper journals that I have dug through. In fact they don't go into much detail on beaver trapping as they do running buffalo. I agree with Rodney with what he stated in his post. Think about it on the practical end of setting traps if you will. If you are setting the trap on land and then have to wade out through willows, mud and other beaver debris you may trip your trap off and would have to go back and do it again?  

rockymountainoutfit.com/sketches/?path=/camps/2013-10-uinta-trapping


Take time to tune your traps, make them fast and touchy. Most of the traps built today are very rough in workmanship and need work. A trail partner bought 6 from Hyrum and we worked on them quite abit to get them right, I had to work on mine as well that I purchased years later. Hud's traps are all made from measurements from originals, I talked with him when I lived in MT.


Think about why you see on the trade list from the fur company's on why so many springs and chains were sold separately? Failures maybe, weak? But I always wonder about the tool used to remove the nuts under the jaws so you could replace the springs? Huh?


John, how did you do out with Allen? He is a good trapper. 


Bill #H1880

[Pare]

Some were weak and did break, according to this.
images.library.wisc.edu/WI/EFacs/transactions/WT1951/reference/wi.wt1951.awschorger.pdf

Pare-