1826 clothing

[doug7]

Things have changed quite a bit from the "old days" when I was involved in my local rondy scene. There is a new focus and emphasis on documentation and historical accuracy that wasn't present those many years ago.
I think that this is all good. So, in that spirit, I am planning an 1826 western fur trapper persona. But I want very much to stay away from the "buckskins and moccasins" look. Civilian clothes for starters for me.
Here's my preliminary take.
1826 middle aged western fur trapper that is a free trapper/adventurer. Born 1771.
*Narrow fall drop trousers. Material....? Does cotton canvas work by this year?
*Typical cotton work shirt, white,
*Waistcoat Material?
*Hunting Frock ? Material?
*Capote
*Boots, not mocs Robert Land Jeffersons?
*Braces
*Flat rimmed round hat
Am I on the right track?

[sean]

Doug,

Take a look through this list. You may find it somewhat helpful. McKnight and James were hauling goods west to NM in 1822 and hence you find more than just the standard trade goods in their packs. Note the trousers of Russia sheeting, which is a hemp canvas, and the diversity of shirts.

www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/html/mcknight.html

Also, I would highly recommend picking up a copy of the Book of Buckskinning VII for the Chronister and Landry Article on the Clothing of the Rocky Mountain Trapper 1820-1840. Its a pretty well researched source.

Sean

[doug7]

Thanks, Sean.
Now if I can ask, what is...

-"24 fine cotton do"

and

-"12 prs shoes 3rd quality"

Also, it's clear that shirts made of cotton were common enough, but were trousers still made of wool and linen?

Sorry for the questions; I don't have Vol VII of the Buckskinners series...yet.

Thanks.

[Cody]

Forgive me of my ignorance but what is (do) ? Dozens?

[Chuck Burrows]

Oct 16, 2010 20:05:16 GMT -7 Cody said:

Forgive me of my ignorance but what is (do) ? Dozens?

It is short for ditto i.e. the same as above.........

[sean]

-"12 prs shoes 3rd quality"

These were very likely keg shoes, or straight-lasted common low-top shoes. Straight-lasted means that the shoes were interchangeable and could be worn on both right and left feet. A friend of mine once was a hard-core CW reenactor and his descriptions of 80 mile marches in straight-lasted shoes make me think moccasins are the way to go. The numbers of shoes going west suggests to me that these were largely for fort staff or a novelty trade item for the tribes. Most of the accounts of people on the trail suggest they were using moccasins.

As for the trousers, Russia sheeting is mentioned in the list. I believe there are some people producing good hemp canvas nowadays and you could likely get a sutler to make you a pair from that if you provide the material. I recall that RodL who frequents this board ferreted out a source for that somewhere. Another common fabric for trousers and pantaloons is satinett, which is a wool cotton blend. It was commonly used even up through the Civil War.

As for the coat, braintan if you can afford it. If not look at German tan from Crazy Crow. Here is a link for a simple original frock coat from the 1819 Long Expedition to the Rockies:

buckconner.tripod.com/coat.html

And yes, Chuck is right. "Do" is period shorthand for ditto, which means same as above.

Sean

[Rod]

The 3rd quality is just different grades of shoes.

Sounds like you're on the right track--trowsers can be wool, wool/cotton or wool/linen mix, or cotton or linen--or a mix of cotton or linen. Most any sort of stout material will work---there's a ton of references to nankeen trowsers, which are made from a long-staple cotton from China (hence the name) and is naturally a brownish-yellow color. Also, no end of trowsers from Russian sheeting or drill--as Sean mentioned. By 1826 the waistband on those trowsers will be clear up under your ribs--you'll need those braces to keep them up. I haven't found a supplier of ordinary braces of the period, so I made my own---just get some webbing or gartering--I used the red striped stuff here: www.woodedhamlet.com/beltings_webbings/lin_hemp_cot_web.html
They have several different webbings that would work great. Just put a series of buttonholes in webbing where it fastens in front to adjust.

White will work fine for your shirt, although checks, block-printed patterns, or solid colors are just fine, too. As is clothing-weight wool, especially for cooler weather (not shirts made out of blankets).

Shoes are good--my wife has a pair made by Robert Land and likes them. I've had both Jarnagin and Missouri Boot and Shoe---all are good, solid footware.

Capot could be made from a blanket---or could be made from duffle or the like. Box-cut is OK, but a more tailored style is correct, too---similar to an over-sized frock coat. White and dark blue are the most common colors, Wyeth's party had green, though. Stay away from fringes, leather panels, and visible yarn topstitching---use heavy thread, and keep your seams to the interior of the garment. If you use a point blanket, remember that 3 1/2 point is about the biggest blanket that was commonly around--3 pt. would be even better. If you need a bigger blanket, just pull one of those points out to make it look like a more correct size. Get rid of the label, too. Dont worry about hemming, the wool won't ravel much---if you want, you can finish the hem with fox braid or tape in a contrasting color---red seems to have been popular among the Canadians. Just don't go for that yarn edge stitching.

Waistcoat could be either cotton or wool.

By hunting frock, do you mean the fringy linen coat used back east during the Rev War? If so, they were still in use through the 1830s.

Hat sounds good, colors could be white, drab (grayish or light tan), black---there are some color options.

As I said, it looks like you're off to a good start, with a little work and research, you'll have an outfit that will fit in with any group.

Rod

[Rod]

Looks like Sean was typing at the same time I was ;D

Take a look at the list I posted of suppliers, under Sutlers of Note, you'll find more ways to spend money there than you can shake a stick at.

Rod

[doug7]

Thanks, guys.
I looked at Hemp Traders; they seem to have a selection of hemp cloth from light to heavier canvas.
Rod, I did look at that list you provided. That's where I found the Hemp Traders. You're right about the money part.
I read somewhere that the white, multi-striped blanket that we see at rondy's that are made into capots came into being about 1820? Am I close on that date?
I might make some side seam mocs, those appear to be more "western". I'm just not a moc person, maybe I haven't worn them enough to really know.
Is there a good pattern for the trowsers?

[Chuck Burrows]

For a trousers pattern get the Kannik's Corner 1790-1810 narrow fall pants - they are correct all the way through the 1830's and include a pattern for period galluses aka braces aka suspenders......they also make a good shirt pattern for the period.

[sean]

I read somewhere that the white, multi-striped blanket that we see at rondy's that are made into capots came into being about 1820? Am I close on that date?

You'll want to avoid the multi-stripe blankets for western stuff of this period. Stick with the colors that RodL mentions above. There are a few people who will argue that the multi-stripes show up during the fur trade based on HBC records, but for the American side stick to the simpler, single color blankets with the indigo bars. See Rod's post on blankets for a source for new ones or look for them at flea markets or ebay.

Sean

[Rod]

Yeah, the jury's out on those multi-stripe blankets. There is a type of blanket listed on the inventories of several American companies as "HB blanket". It's been speculated (stress on the speculation!) that this may refer to the multi-stripe, but there's no evidence to prove that. In Canadian collections, there did exist a multi-stripe blanket from the very early 1800s, but according to clothing expert Barry McPherson of Winnipeg, the stripes differed in color and order from the blankets offered today.

Just go for white, blue, green, or red---in that order of commonality---and you'll be fine.

Rod

[jeffp]

Jean wool & linen are also waist coat and trouser material options.

Like Rod, Sean & Chuck said, stay away from the striped blankets,
they are listed on the old HBC inventories, but no one is exactly
sure if they are the multi or candy striped blankets we have today,
or another form, PLUS they're listed well behind Red, white, blue
and even green in commonality.

Carolina calicoes and old sturbridge village are another good source
for period pattern cloth for shirting, and in addition to Missouri Boot & Shoe
and Robert land, there is Tom Mattimore at civilwarboots.com

[doug7]

Rod is a little familiar with my preferences from over on the 18th century boards. There seems to be a way to do a little clothing "crossover" to reduce initial expenses. Tell me if I'm wrong with the following.
The way I see it clothing items that could cross over between 1770 and 1826 would be a black, flat brimmed round hat, trowsers, shirt and boots. Perhaps a shooting bag and horn as well. A white or blue blanket.
The waist coat would be different, I would use a fringed hunting shirt/frock for 1826 but not 1770 (Massachusetts farmer) and a capote for 1826.
Suggestions?